How Long Can Chanel Still Eat Old Books?

Chanel

For the 2017 autumn and winter series, Paris's dome of The Grand Palace is a heavy copy of Eiffel Tower.

The dream that can't be reached in mind has been divided with the real needs of consumers.

After the last time in the showroom to build a simulation rocket, Chanel has set up second Eiffel Tower in the high court.

A simulated rocket that can actually launch several meters, a Eiffel Tower replicated under the dome of Paris's The Grand Palace, whether it's a tribute to the future or a tribute to Paris, the cost of this "salute" seems too high.

Although Chanel has never disclosed the specific data of the location cost, it is bound to cost a lot.

However, in the face of spectacular and spectacular, Chanel may have gone the wrong way.

Chanel is a truly capable rocket launcher for the 2017 autumn and winter series.

The intention of such extravagance in the show is certainly not just for "salute", but what Chanel most expects is the topic.

Although the rocket and the Eiffel Tower entity device were demolished after the show, they benefited from the popularity of social networks and prolong the vitality of the topic.

Almost at the same time as the fashion show is released, viewers around the world can enjoy the spectacular scenery of Chanel through pictures and videos, and set off another round of heated discussions.

Although the popularity of Chanel has been very high, the brand is still trying to bring exposure to the brand through every topic.

As one of the luxury goods giants, Chanel also hopes to prove its hard power to other brands by drawing on the grand show.

Now, the fashion industry is gradually showing two camps on the show. Some brands tend to save the show costs in a low fashion and retail environment. For example, Versace cancels the high-level announcement, Proenza Schouler combines shows, Vetements announces no longer shows.

However, several luxury brands located on the head of the industry have done a lot of money in the show, especially in the early spring holiday series. Louis Vuitton, Dior and Chanel have shown strong capital strength through the scale and location scarcity of the show, while the invisible competition has also kept up the cost of the show.

It is understandable to pursue the topic and highlight the strength. For luxury magnates, such shows are also within the scope of competence.

But the practice of Chanel alone has made many people feel wrong. Where is the problem?

The biggest problem is the product.

Some industry points of view that Chanel's clothing products have not been innovated for many years, almost every season is based on the classic tweed suit, and the deformation of each season is almost "changing the soup without changing the medicine", lacking the innovation of design.

Besides, with the popularity of sports style, formal dress is facing serious challenges.

Chanel is indeed the first luxury brand to publicize sports themes in fashion shows, and it is also very forward-looking about the rise of sports.

But apart from the packaging of fashion shows, Chanel's products are less and less associated with sports.

People have to admit that heavy and restrained tweed basically has nothing to do with sports concepts, and few people wear Chanel clothes to exercise.

As more and more brands began to work hard on new technology fabrics, such as flower and other traditional

The development space is also getting smaller and smaller.

The theme of Chanel 2014 autumn winter clothing is not a sports theme.

Chanel has long been proud of its brand new spirit of subversion. The founder, Coco Chanel, developed a loose version and fabric that was more suitable for physical activities in 20s of last century to liberate women's body.

But today, Chanel seems to have stopped exploring the costumes itself. Most of the new series for each season are rigid and hard to add new elements to the classics.

Simple cultural misappropriation and theme application are also at risk, for example, in May this year, the Chanel launched the boomerang on suspicion of blaspheming Australian Aboriginal culture.

Chanel high priced boomerang, boycotted by Australian Aborigines

The "subversive" in the core spirit of Chanel has been gradually blurred, and the brand has begun to spend a lot of energy on topic marketing and show setting.

Supporters of some brands believe that every Chanel's theme that attracts viewers is still a reflection of "subversive".

But if further analysis is conducted, it is not difficult to find the superficiality of most themes.

The commentator, Ana Andjelic, criticized the publication of the 2017 autumn and winter space series, and emphasized that the Chanel of the show was misleading the future direction of luxury brands, making fashion more and more superficial and unable to deliberate.

In this show, creative director Karl Lagerfeld equates the future of mankind to rocket, robot and space, but the fact is that human beings have been away from the first landing for several decades. In 60s of last century, French designer Andr Courr Courr ges proposed that the concept of space fashion was considered to be a trendy trend. But today, when all sectors of society are discussing artificial intelligence and other important scientific and technological issues that are about to change the world, the concept of space is already "retro" in the futuristic cloak.

More importantly, Chanel seems to be at the center of the luxury Empire, and has no intention of paying attention to the social progress outside the fashion world. This is the fashion industry's frequent criticism.

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Chanel also seems to be concerned about social issues, such as the computer room of the 2017 spring summer series.

But apart from putting the show into a data center and putting fiber into fancy fabrics, the show does not reflect the characteristics of the digital age. The theme of the series remains as "landscape" rather than "content".

In the huge computer room, the floating data in the invisible end is still manifested through visible colored fibers, more or less disappointing.

After the launch of new products, some analysts believe that the new products that are placed in the window with the server can hardly see what the brand wants to express.

On the surface is embracing new technology, but in fact it still follows the old thinking. Some people think it is hypocritical futurism.

Chanel 2017 spring summer series will make the show into a computer room.

Even after paying tribute to Paris's latest Gao Ding series, Chanel's interpretation is still lacking in sincerity.

Rebuilding Eiffel Tower in The Grand Palace in Paris is far from good.

For such a long history of French fashion houses, the interpretation of Paris should have been more profound, but now it is once again a simple tribute to images, but this time the salute is more expensive.

Commentator Ana Andjelic pointedly pointed out that Karl Lagerfeld is old in attracting young people's favorite products.

On the other hand, exaggerated scenery is also a big waste of cost.

For capital rich Chanel, the cost of location is not small.

Moreover, in today's highly variable luxury industry, no luxury brand can be once and for all, and the most fashionable fashion house is always at risk of being eliminated at any time.

Performance also reflects the trend of the brand, Chanel 2015's earnings report has fallen sharply, and the brand is losing momentum.

According to the Amsterdam stock exchange's earnings report in August last year, Chanel 2015's profits and sales fell sharply. In the year ended December 31, 2015, Chanel's operating profit dropped 23% to 1 billion 600 million dollars, and total revenue fell 17% to 6 billion 240 million dollars.

Because Chanel is not a listed company, its earnings report is delayed in the Amsterdam stock exchange. It is reported that the results of Chanel 2016 are released in August this year.

According to the world clothing and shoe net, in 2015, the revenue of cosmetics and perfume business as one of the core businesses of Chanel was 2 billion 600 million euros, or about 2 billion 910 million US dollars, down 21% from 2014.

In order to boost the perfume business, Chanel launched a new version of No.5 L 'Eau perfume last week, and this week launched a new Gabrielle perfume in Paris.

But Chanel, owned by the mysterious millionaire Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer, has been competing fiercely with LVMH Vuitton's Louis Vuitton.

Last year, Louis Vuitton also promoted its fragrance business after 70 years. Its main high-end luxury style was sold only in LV stores.

It is also in this July, the Louis Vuitton perfume series officially entered China, and the new Gabrielle launched by Chanel.

Chanel and LVMH have different attitudes towards the electricity supplier.

According to German media, Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Chanel fashion department, said in an interview this May that she was still cautious about the electricity supplier.

Contrary to the fact that other luxury brands have slowed down or stopped increasing physical store practices, Chanel continues to expand its physical stores.

It is reported that in 2018, Chanel will open a 600 square meter new shop in the suburb street of Saint orange, Paris. At the same time, shops on the 57 block in New York are also being renovated, and new stores will also be opened in Seoul and Tokyo.

In fact, in 2015, Chanel announced that it had made a comprehensive move into e-commerce. However, its attitude has been volatile. So far, Chanel has already tested jewelry, glasses and cosmetic products on some electronic business platforms, but has not yet pushed the core business handbags and clothing business as brand soul into the electricity supplier.

Now, Chanel's attitude towards the electricity supplier tends to be conservative. This means that in the short term, Chanel is unlikely to push the core business including garment accessories to the electricity supplier channel, and the strategy of entering the electricity supplier will be limited to some parts of the business, such as beauty makeup.

The competitor LVMH has already taken the lead in implementing the strategy of electric business. It has just launched the 24 S vres of self built electric power recently, and has taken the lead in linking entity Bon Le March with online e-commerce, which is more and more becoming the new retail mode of the industry consensus.

24 S vres is undoubtedly an indispensable thing for the luxury industry including the Chanel and the whole electricity supplier structure.

In addition to Louis Vuitton, Chanel's second largest rival, Dior, is also making efforts.

Thanks to the Maria Grazia Chiuri's younger initiatives, Dior's performance in the first quarter of this year has been greatly boosted.

Sales rose 18% to 500 million euros in the three months to March 31st, and retail channel sales increased by 19% in real terms, compared with the same period last year.

The biggest threat to Chanel is the success of Dior's new product.

Maria Grazia Chiuri's products for Dior are really popular with the millennial generation of the future consuming main force. The star products of iconic star appear frequently. Whether it is feminist We Should All Be Feminists declaration T-shirt, or white ribbon J "ADIOR cat and shoe", it has become frequent in social media and street shooting in a short half year, and has become a strong driving force for sales.

In contrast, Chanel has badly lacked innovation and labeling in recent years.

Handbags, apart from the classic Chanel 2.55 and so on, did not highlight the new model, but fortunately, this year began to vigorously promote the new Gabrielle handbag, how the sales situation remains to be tested.

In contrast, the Vintage Chanel in the secondary market is more popular.

In addition to the popular classic pair of shoes, only logo grass woven canvas shoes have received a good response, and this style has been launched for some time.

With LVMH's official takeover of the Dior Fashion Department of a wholly owned subsidiary of Christian Dior SA holding company with 6 billion 500 million euros, LVMH group's two trump card Louis Vuitton and Dior will exert more pressure on the enemy's Chanel.

In the face of strong rivals, Chanel, who has done a lot of money but does not innovate, is "eating the same old book".

There are signs that Chanel, though trying to show off to the millennial generation, does not really understand the real needs of the younger generation.

In the matter of selecting spokesmen and advertising images, the eyes of Karl Lagerfeld are puzzled by many people.

Whether it is twilight Kristen Stewart or star two generation Lily-Rose Depp, the two characters are more rebellious, which conforms to the brand's subversive spirit on the surface, but actually causes the audience to have cognitive bias.

It is easy to see through street pads that the private image of the two tends to be street style, which is not matched with the grand tweed suit and dress skirt.

In particular, Kristen Stewart, which is famous for its neutral style in private, always favors Vans, jeans and T-shirts.

For the millennial generation, the image of celebrities on the stage is not important. They are more concerned about the image of stars in private.

Advertising image of Kristen Stewart

Daily image of Kristen Stewart

Product and brand image disconnection is the most serious problem of Chanel at present.

The extravagant show is obviously also due to some misunderstandings of Chanel to the new generation of consumers.

The future consumers' expectation of luxury brands is no longer an unreachable magnificent view, but the interaction between culture and emotion; not a carefully built moon dream and Paris centrism, but a resonance with the consumer on their concerns; not the high cold image set by the brand alone, but the unique personality of the consumer themselves; not the luxury and waste, but the contest of taste and personality; not the slogan "subversive innovation", but a more pragmatic fresh experience.

What is more alarming is that few people in the industry dare to criticize the luxury goods giant Chanel.

Because Chanel is spending money on advertising and marketing, it is an important customer of many fashion media. Therefore, most media commentaries after the fashion show focus on the theme show device, and this is precisely because there is not much room for discussion about the lack of changing products.

Fashion reviews lose authority and luxury brands lose their gatekeepers.

Just like this week's former British Vogue fashion director, Lucinda Chambers, who was dismissed from her job, she said, "now fashion magazines have stopped trying to make themselves useful." she attacked the Michael Kors T-shirt on the cover of the British edition of Vogue 6, and admitted that she had to do so because the latter was a heavy advertiser.

For Chanel, defects have been exposed very clearly.

Blindness will only miss market opportunities and become dangerous. As pointed out by Maureen Chiquet, who left the Chanel global CEO in January last year, for Chanel, it is not how much it wants to do first, but how to keep it unique. Obviously, it must rely on product innovation.

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